Saturday, July 14, 2012

The Fairlawn

As I mentioned in a previous post, we stayed at the Fairlawn on the way to Bangladesh three years ago. It is quite an institution. It has been a hostelry since before WWII. Run by a family for most of that time, now ruled over by Violet, a youthful 91 year-old. As I greeted her on this visit, she is doing well and not camped on her children's doorstep. Her staff are her family and by extension, ours.

The bungalow has rooms on the edge of large interior halls. Upstairs, there is a large sitting room and downstairs it is split between a smaller sitting area by the front desk and the dining room.
The walls are covered by years of momentos, family pictures and regional nicknacks, as well as many items brought by loyal guests from their travels. The ceilings are high with fans whirling. There are many layers of heavy paint on any surface, not just the walls, but old pieces of furniture. The paint dies it's best to keep away the mold and decay I'm sure.

Our spacious room was recently painted. Two single beds pushed together, another along a wall. There were various furniture pieces: a wardrobe, sitting chairs, vanity, cupboards and stands. The floors were tiles of marble. The fans were again on the high ceiling, a smaller window a/c unit kept us comfortable. We had a small refrigerator, which we really didn't use. They stocked insulated carafes of drinking water, an electric kettle and makings of tea. The bathroom had been recently redone into an open fully tiled room with overhead shower. We did have a TV, with a few English language channels, BBC, etc. We really appreciated that they had made sure that the room was sufficiently wired with multi-pronged plugs for all our electronic gear. And despite the warning that the wifi was only available in the public rooms, we were able to get sufficient coverage from the room. It was truly our retreat.

The room rate included breakfast, cut fruit, choice of cornflakes or oatmeal, eggs and toast. The coffee or tea was served with a cozy so that you could sit and sip as long as you wished. The first couple of days, the room was crowded with a group of h.s. students from Belgium with matching red T-shirts on a three week mission trip. They had breakfast at 8 and gathered to load a bus at 9, off ready for their work, always with guitars close at hand.

The Fairlawn was a great place to strike up a conversation. On a later day, I met a woman from the Netherlands who had recently relocated to Dhaka. Because of her visa restrictions, she had to leave BD and reenter the country every two months. We enjoyed swapping stories of trains to Dhaka and bus travel in the region.

The other end of the day at the Fairlawn was centered in the garden. Tables and chairs under trees and open rooms with overhead fans. It was a wonderful cool place to sit with a cool one after coming in from the Kolkata streets. It was definitely a gathering spot for tea time or happy hour or whatever your nationality does to celebrate the end of a day.

Here P and I met up with a middle-aged couple from Australia who were staying at the Oberoi, a fancy hotel around the corner for their anniversary. They seemed very interested in our accommodations I was proud when the next afternoon I saw them upstairs as paying guests. The following day we shared a table in the garden to swap stories. He was in town to interview for a headmaster's position at a local school.

We had noted it to ourselves and she independently proclaimed it enthusiastically, "Isn't this just like the Exotic Marigold Hotel?"



Sunday, July 8, 2012

Our day trip to Chandannagar

Took the ferry over to the local train. Then about one hour up the river to the old French colonial town. Pleasant time on the strand. We stopped for dinner. Took the crowded train back to the city. What an adventure. Hope some of the pics show how incredible this day was. Sorry they don't seem to be in order, but you get the idea.

Friday, July 6, 2012

Bittersweet visit

I have borrowed P's bluetooth keyboard to write this post. I am frustrated typing with one fat finger on my iPhone keyboard to do much more than tag a post. This isn't a post of pictures, documenting our travels. It is a post of words, documenting our internal journey.

P and I have had breakfast and a walk around the neighborhood. We are back in the room, a/c'd, fans spinning, shades pulled. F is still asleep. We're taking our time getting our internal clocks adjusted to Asian time. But it is also a time to take it slow. It is monsoon season, cooler than Delhi, but very humid. We hope to cherish all things Indian, and specifically Bengali. Kolkata is in the state of West Bengal.

It is hard not to think back to the family who was here at the Fairlawn, in June, 2009, so excited, so scared, not knowing how our life would be changed by our time in Bangladesh.

We had scheduled this trip so that we could return to Chittagong. F wanted to see some of his WCA friends. P and I wanted to see staff at AUW. We weren't sure that we'd be able to see any students. We wanted to return, to feel connected again. To not be in exile. But it just didn't work out.

First were the visas, we had ten-year visas for India. So there was no problem getting this far. But the expense of going to NYC to get a BD visa on a work day to say nothing of the $150/person for the visa was more than this family could do. We are still recovering from the financial difficulty forced on us after leaving BD.
We also learned that there were no direct Kolkata to Chittagong flights currently scheduled. Getting to Chittagong meant going through Dhaka, a difficult trip, adding more expense.

So we are spending an extended visit in Kolkata. But it isn't the same.

We had a wonderful overnight train ride from Delhi to Kokata. We were so fortunate to share our compartment with a lovely women, originally from Kolkata, returning for a family visit. She was delightful and so generous sharing her history and knowledge of the area. Our story slowly came out. And in all irony of ironies, it turned out that she had considered applying for a position at AUW. We listened to the reasons why she eventually decided not to submit her application. We listened, assuring her that she had made the right decision.

And yet, I know that we made the right decision to go to Asian University for Women. Our life is better for our time there. Our family is stronger. We have been so blessed by loving friends. I will follow the progress of my wonderful students as they continue through their careers.

My heart cries out to see my friends, my students, my home for a year. You have touched me. My life is so changed by you.

Just now the monsoon rain is flooding down. I have a tear or two to dry.

Returning to Fire and Ice

You may know we have a tradition of pizza once a week in NY. We are returning to our favorite pizza place in Kolkata. This time trying their "Fire of Bengal" pizza. It was wonderfully spicy.

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Leaving Delhi

It was a nice stay to adjust to Asia. We're in the lobby ready to take a car to the train station. The overnight train to Kolkata leaves at 5pm. May not have wifi for a day or so.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

The day* in Delhi

*well actually the late afternoon into the evening

We went to Humayun's Tomb. Stopped for refreshment at the Oberoi. After the long train back you can see the moon over my guys as we approach the hotel.

From our room

This area is really new. Hotel has been open for ten months.

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Onboard to Delhi

Cheers. Always fun to make your nest, to discover what surprises are around you. This is a day flight so I have to have reading material, serious to summer fluff. And what movies? What to eat? Pay attention to safety video. Must turn off now.

Bastogne

I'm going to post this one blind without editing. This are pictures from Bastogne. I'll try to edit when I get to a desktop. C














Is it really lunch time?

Love the lounge life.

Vienna Senator Lounge

It's a beautiful day in Vienna. We're in the new terminal. I've lost use of my laptop so my posts will be short and sweet from the iPhone.

Updated. I picked up a 15 year Star Alliance pin. Who knows what you'll find to eat.

Monday, July 2, 2012

Lunch at Orval

Nice setting, on the corner of Belgium, France and Luxembourg. Heading back to Frankfurt tonight.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Random Belgium

A brew and snack at Maredsous.
At the Colruyt store, all the chilled items are in one room
Carrefour's American Cookies with the Statue of Liberty, Football players and
Route 66 motel sign!
A vending machine to out-do the Japanese: Fresh bread!